Rome

Here we are in Rome, yes, luckily we did find the road that led to Rome!

Firstly, we would like to acknowledge our wonderful family in Lucca for their generosity and kindness shown to us over the last two and a half weeks.

To……

Zia Elsa for her wonderful meals, opening her house to us and for her calm and caring nature. Her tranquility and cheeriness, welcoming us ‘home’ at the end of a tiring day out.

Zio Piero for his wicked, cheeky smile and sense of humour, and his dedication to his l’orto (vegetable garden) and generously providing something from l’orto at every meal.

Zia Maria Pia and Zio Sergio for the great day we had at Viareggio and the wonderful seafood lunch shared together with their family.

Zia Nila and Zio Elio for a superb meal and a relaxing afternoon in campagna at Quattro Venti.

Monica for opening her house to us and a wonderful afternoon tea together. Matteo, for his chats in English and the promise to write to us via email.

 Elisabetta for a great early evening stroll along the promenade at  Viareggio and sharing her house with us on the night before we began our adventure in La Spezia.

Umberto and Alessandra for their computer access whenever we needed it, for a lovely dinner shared, for making themselves and their car available to us to get to the locations inaccessible by bus AND joining us for a spritz or two at the bar! Martina, the young ballerina who delighted us with her dancing and singing.

Riccardo and Paola for the meal shared together beneath the Aqueduct, a memorable evening. Greta and Gabrielle for their amusing antics at the restaurant…. Amazed at how much two children could eat!

Patrizia and Vincenzo for showing us Piazza di Spagna, coffee, a wonderful dinner and their hospitality in Rome on our second night away from our Luccese family. Matilde for her affectionate hugs and special letter which will be kept close forever.

The last few days have been emotion charged for me. I have loved every moment of my time in Lucca, a place that has always been special and important to me because of my dad. I always knew that I would feel at home in Lucca, and that the 28 years since I last saw them all would melt away so that it would seem as is if was only yesterday that we were together. While we have all aged and matured, it is as if time has stood still. The bond between us is indescribable. They say that the eyes are the windows to the soul, and so, as I look into the eyes of my uncles I see their love deep within their hearts. My dad’s eyes convey the same. Saying goodbye was so much more difficult that I imagined.  While I expect to see my cousins again, the thought that I may not see others saddens me immensely. But, my mum’s wise words telling me to remember how fortunate I am to have seen them all once more, is positive and reinforcing. I celebrate this precious time I have shared with Paul and with my Italian family, I will miss them always.  (Tina)

Visiting with my ‘new’ family was such a double-edged sword…. It was so wonderful to be unconditionally and lovingly accepted by people I have never met before, but have heard so much about from  Tina and her family in Australia. BUT it was so surprisingly emotionally hard and difficult to let go and say good-bye the last few days to these wonderful warm  people. I WILL miss them and is unfortunate that we live so far apart. (Paul)

This afternoon Paul writes from the hotel room balcony.

 (Tina says……. yes! Another room with a balcony….Nick M, your advice (if you can’t remember what it was, I’ll tell you when we return) helped us get the rooms with balconies each time!!!!)

….and so to Rome…. Aaahhhh. How can you possible convey in mere words alone the ambience as I write. I write professionally for a living and employ words each day, but I am left impotent to adequately describe what I see, smell, taste and hear. Not possible. The sun is now low in the sky and the buildings are in the creeping  shadows. The sunlight boldly glistening, reflecting from the abundant satellite dishes and rooftop antennas. Swallows aimlessly looping and diving overhead,  silhouetted against the deepening azure blue sky. Church bells faintly calling the faithful to gather  competing with the constant drone of the Rome traffic. Car horns and ambulance sirens punctuating this city symphony.  Somewhere someone is cooking garlic…another is cooking tomatoes and preparing the evening family meal.

We’re writing this at midnight, after our first full day in Rome, and after a dinner out with Patrizia and Vincenzo. We will have more time to write tomorrow and include pictures too!

Florence, Siena, San Gimignano

Yes, it’s been a while between blogs, but, for those of you who have ever stayed with family while on holidays, you know what it’s like!


Firenze

Between listening to the entrancing tales from elderly uncles, enjoying delicious lunches and late dinners, strolling through the old town of Lucca and surrounding suburbs to absorb as much of the local ambience as possible AND the sightseeing…..the time left for blogging, this week, has been relegated to second place. For this blog we’ll let the photos say it all, so enjoy! 

Ponte Vecchio at Sunset.....



The Duomo





.....it truly was a memorable night....!



Riccardo and family with us at dinner

  More and more though, we feel so at home here in Lucca, the familiarity of the streets, knowing where the Tabacchi are for bus tickets, which buses to catch (and more importantly, where to get off!), which shop to re-visit (thankfully marked on our map!) and just having that sense of being a local. It has been amazing, we will never forget the love, generosity and sense of family we have experienced here .
 


The view of the viaduct (and Tina) from Riccardo's house

Paul with MORE shopping!!

Today we have the arduous task of trying to pack! Why did I buy so many shoes! We’ve decided to each send home a 10kg parcel of clothing (yes, we did pack way too many, and for now, no longer need jackets or long pants) and bits and pieces we can live without for the next few weeks. Thankfully for us, a PT (Post Office) is just up the street!  This however does NOT stop Paul from adding to the problem!!


Today too, we say farewell to Zia Nila and Zio Elio at Quattro Venti, the house in the hills. Zio Elio is a quiet man, however, I know Elio will shed many tears today. For Elio, these tears are filled with emotion and speak a thousand words of love.
 

It will be incredibly hard for both of us to leave tomorrow, it has already become difficult in these last days. Zio Sergio with his kind eyes and soft voice is always ready to greet us with a hug. We will miss his spontaneous evening visits and sitting outside with his daughter Monika looking at the fireflies .Cheeky  Zio Piero, the optimist, says that we may meet again but perhaps not here, and that the circle of life keeps on going. I would love for him to come to Australia with us and return in July with my parents…. But, to the Italians, Australia is TOO far away!

Zia Elsa has been amazing to us. She is quiet and calm (tranquile), and always loving (and a fantastic cook too). We are most grateful for their hospitality and generosity. Paul loves the way Zio Piero relaxes around the house in his white t-shirt and underwear…..no pants!

All roads lead to Rome. Hope we can find one tomorrow…..

Lucca and ……. Shopping!

Since we returned from la Spezia we have divided our time between rest and recovery, retail therapy and spending time with family.

We have really enjoyed the delicious home cooking provided by the aunties. They are simple, traditional home-cooked meals, full of goodness and sourced from their home garden. Satisfying and restorative with every mouthful. The abundant fresh strawberries are particularly welcomed at the end of the meal. Zio Piero has a l’orto (large vegetable garden) measuring approximately 20m x 30m, where each day he lovingly attends to the cultivation and care of huge quantities of seasonal fruit and vegetables. Each day we get to enjoy the freshly picked bountiful harvest. 

Dad's forest near the river.

We have visited many of the places where Tina’s dad used to play when he was a boy; the city wall where he used to bunk off school to practice boxing with his friends; the river where he used to sail his home built rafts; the back streets where he used to run away barefoot when his mum would call him to come for dinner. Every step taken in these backstreets of this neighborhood was where my dad and my 3 uncles grew up.

 

Tina & Riccardo

On our walk through the neighborhood we visited my Cousin, Riccardo’s workshop where we briefly interrupted his work. He also works in metal fabrication following in the family tradition. His wife runs a shoe shop in Lucca…! Cool. Tina last saw Riccardo when he was about eleven years old and he was a little shorter.

Nelda and Lisa, it’s true what you said about shopping in Lucca! If you know where to go, the prices are great. There are endless shoe shops, with no limit to the number of shoes they will let you try on. Yesterday I came home from our shopping expedition with 3 pairs of shoes (I won’t tell you how many I bought the day before!). Still looking for boots though!

 Today I placed an order for a leather jacket at a local leather manufacturer  I previously visited when I was in Italy 30 years ago – this time my jacket was made to measure. Even  Paul found himself caught up in the shopping fever and also placed an order for a jacket. We pick both of them up next Thursday! The search for a suitable man-bag still continues.

One of the pleasures of Lucca is strolling or riding around the 17^th century ramparts – the magnificent city walls whose tree-lined promenade offers breath-taking views of the city.

Healthy Salad Lunch

We hired a bike each, packed a picnic lunch and embarked on a leisurely ride on top of the city wall. The continuous length of the wall is unbroken and vehicles enter and leave the city through five gates beneath the wall. The safety afforded by these city walls would have comforted the inhabitants and when completed in 1645, were the most advanced of their type in the world.

 It’s funny, but we feel so at home here in Lucca. It seems that the other tourists are an intrusion in OUR town! How easy would it be, if unencumbered by our  family and work back home, to move here and call Lucca home for real. I have empathy for my dad when he returns to Australia from Lucca how much he misses his family, his neighborhood and the easy-going, relaxed life-style.

However, on the down-side is the state of Lucca’s roads! Whilst strolling the streets with only one pair of shoes, purchased at a bargain price, Tina happened to find the only pot-hole in Lucca, in the middle of an intersection. As she hit the ground and cried out in pain, I turned around to where she should have been, only to find she was not there??  I looked to the ground and there, prostrate amid shopping bags and backpack, was Tina. At Tina’s SPECIFIC INSISTENCE I immediately rescued the most important thing – the shopping!  

Tina & The ONLY Pothole in Lucca

As I cautiously threaded through the newly formed traffic jam to where I left a bloodied Tina moaning in pain, a kind lady on her bicycle rode up to offer her assistance. Tina, who was now able to speak intelligibly accepted her offer to attend her husband’s dental surgery to clean and dress her wounds. Afterwards, with twisted ankle, bruised knee and lacerated wrist she managed to shuffle, carrying her precious shopping to the nearest shoe shop where she indulged in some restorative shoe shopping. Two new pairs of shoes and 30 minutes later Tina was happily hobbling home.

Tina says….. “Where were you, Paul, to help me carry my precious shopping home!”

Paul says: “I was walking ahead scanning for more potholes Honey”

OUCH..!!!!

Zio arranging the deck BEFORE we play.

Last night we played cards with Zio who soundly trounced us both playing La Scopa (The Sweep) and Briscola (????).  Paul thinks Zio made up the rules as the game progressed! Luckily we weren’t playing for money! The night concluded with Tina and Zio dancing to the sounds of Patrizio Buane – how cool was that!

Year 2/3’s, it was wonderful to hear from you, I am really glad you are enjoying the blog and reading about the wonderful places we are visiting.

 David, I can’t wait to see your sketches of my photos, just wait until I show you my other photos too! Emily, Paige (and Lisa), thank you for your comments too, I wish you were all here!

The children in Italy can choose to go to school five days a week from 8.30am until 4pm, or six days a week from 8.30am until 1.30pm. Can you imagine only having Sunday off each week!!!

Yesterday, in Lucca, I bought our Year 2/3 Class a gift, but I won’t tell you what it is… only that it is black and white and round!!  Can you guess….?

Happy Birthday Natalie....hope you had a great day XXX

Say hello to the teachers for me, I hope everyone is well.

Mads hope you are feeling better and that the Hospital food is edible...miss you!! XXXXX DAD

Sally and Tim....keep emailing. I LOVE receiving them from you, miss you tanto XXX Mammy

Tomorrow we leave for Montecatini for an overnight stay with another family member, Simonetta, and then to Firenze (Florence) and Siena for three days. We are travelling by train and then bus because Paul is too much of a 'Wuss' to drive! He doesn’t feel comfortable sharing the narrow, unfamiliar roads with the erratic and pushy drivers who seem to think that road rules are merely guidelines. 

Portofino and Cinque Terre Boat Cruise

We checked out of our hotel early, and stored our luggage at the station before heading out by train to Santa Margherita, on the Ligurian coast. The local bus then drove us on narrow winding roads, barely wide enough for bus and car to pass on the way to Portofino. 

The view of the harbour in Portofino is punctuated by countless, expensive, white yachts gently bobbing in the crystal clear water.  The harbour is 'girt' by rows of pastel hued houses. Portofino is the most exclusive harbour and resort town in Italy, with its designer label stores alongside the main pedestrian thoroughfare. 

 

 

The harbour in Portofino

 

Their merchandise, whilst  very appealing and incredibly expensive, failed to tempt us. We did however lash out and buy a Portofino t-shirt each!!! Oh well, when in Portofino…….

 

We particularly wanted to take a ferry from Monterosso back to La Spezia, when the late afternoon sun highlighted the colours of the buildings of the Cinque Terre. The view from the traghetto (ferry) arriving and leaving each town was picture postcard perfect. Again, the sun gods smiled upon us and even Neptune provided calm seas on this journey. We’ll let the photos speak for us. Sometimes words simply will not do.

Corneligia

Corneligia ....just amazing

Riomaggiore

 

Alex, lamentably, I have started looking at man-bags! Whilst acceptable in the European context, I don’t think they would work for me in Australia!! (Tina won't let me use the gay word) Photos later!...Curiously, did you buy one...?? 

Bruno...cavities??...I HOPE NOT..!

Penelope, of course they they remember you. Quite fondly in fact. Even Riccardo (Tina's cousin) asked after you today.

Anna and Tony, we received your posting, glad the minor op went OK. Hoping for good results. Lauren and Michael - buona fortuna per la casa nuova. Ciao Bianca and Pete.

We are writing this blog on the train from La Spezia back to Lucca where we will stay with family for a few days before heading off to explore Firenze, Sienna and of course, Lucca in detail.

 
Thank you all for your dedication to writing comments…we can’t wait to log on and see them in the mornings.

Viarregio, Porto Venere, Cinque Terre

As we sit in our room at the end of today (Tuesday) and reflect on the last few days, we are, as usual, blown away by how much we do each day. Our days always end with much satisfaction, tired feet and a drink!

Sunday was spent with  Zio Sergio and his family. Zio Sergio took us on a tour of Viarregio, Forte di Marme and Lido, where we lunched at an amazing beach side restaurant for a feast of seafood. The towering mountains of white marble at Carrera loomed in the distance as if capped by snow. Imagine Michelangelo selecting his piece of marble from slabs cut from these mountains, and producing a masterpiece such as ‘David’. Incomprehensible when you actually see the enormity of the mountains.

L to R. Matteo, Zio Sergio, Paolo, Zia Elsa, Monica,
 Tina and Elisabetta (who still needs a boyfriend !!)

Viarregio is a sea-side resort, with villas and apartments. Few people live here permanently (Elisabetta, my cousin, who is still after a man, is one) while for others these villas are their second sea-side homes. The wide marbled pavement shopping area of Viarregio located on the foreshore and is many kilometers long. Shop after shop sell their exclusive wares, while the ‘Bagno’ on the beach front prepares for the following day. Umbrellas and sun lounges are folded and clean and sit neatly in rows for sun-bathers who have longingly waited for the sun through cold winter days.

Along the molo, Viarregio in the background

 

Before a typical late dinner we strolled along the promenade shopping area and molo (jetty).

Paul was amazed to see that they actually surfed in Italy.

A simple but satisfying meal prepared by Elisabetta was a perfect end to a perfect day.

On Monday morning we caught the train from Viarregio to our 2 night stop-over in La Spezia,  where we are staying as our base for visiting Porto Venere, Cinque Terre (and Portofino).   



Porto Venere  - Stunning



Are we excited to be in Porto Venere
or what !??



A short ferry ride took us to Porto Venere, named after the Goddess Venus. Porto Venere  is recognised as one of the most romantic villiages on the Ligurian coast, with its narrow streets and pastel coloured houses.   

 



Vernazza - looks like a tiny model.

 Today’s adventure started in La Spezia to the Cinque Terre, which comprise 5 self contained villages – Rio Maggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Monterosso al Mare. This region has been made famous by the likes of Getaway, and therefore attracts huge numbers of Australians.





These villages are located on rocky coastline, clinging dramatically to the steep cliffs. Up until recently, all villages were linked only by narrow footpaths known as the Sentiero Azzuro (blue path).

We walked from Rio Maggiore to Manorola on the Via Del’Amore (Lover’s Lane) which was easy peasy!

We also walked the path between Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare which, according to published information, should take about two hours. We managed to complete it in four hours, including morning coffee, lunch and many, many photos stops. Woo Hoo!!!!

 

The path was treacherously narrow and afforded one way pedestrian traffic only in many parts. The views were spectacular, and regrettably the photos fail to convey the steepness and immense space before us. You could not help but constantly stop to admire the breath-taking views.

For every step higher and higher into the mountain, we knew we would have to take as many to descend. Our knees held out well, although trembling by the time we reached the flat promenade!!!



Monterosso

We rewarded ourselves with dinner, beer (for Paul) and Spritz on the foreshore of Monterosso, before heading home (home is where you lay your head at night, La Spezia tonight!). 


So many days, so many beds...

As you can see, we are still having superb weather...How's the weather in Adelaide...?

BAHAHAHA!

P.S. I TOTALLY agree with Nelda and Lisa. Lucca is great for shopping. I bought my first pair of shoes there!




Good-night from us! 'till next time xxxx Tina and Paul

With our Family in Lucca



Tina with Zia Elsa and Zio Piero and Zio Sergio



We arrived in Lucca three days ago to the warm hugs and kisses and the accompanying emotional tears from uncles, aunts and cousins. It has been almost thirty years since Tina was here in ‘82/’83, and so the reunion was extremely emotional and extraordinary, unforgettable. When I saw two of the uncles, and my cousin Umberto art the train station, I knew instantly who they were. 

 

 

 

 

Tina and Zio Elio

The family resemblance and bond was immediately felt even before we spoke. Of course, there were tears! I always said that I felt ‘home’ in Italy, and still do. My heritage and roots extend deeper than where I was born.

 

 

Paul was unexpectedly overwhelmed and very emotional too, as he discovered he has a whole new family who have lovingly accepted him as their own. He was in a bit of a shock when the uncles wanted to give him a whiskery kiss, but soon warmed to the idea and responded equally in kind.

Paolo and Zio Piero who thinks his
hat SHOULD win the competition.

Paolo and Zio Sergio

My dad, Franco, has three brothers living in Lucca, of which he is the eldest. Dad left this beautiful country at the age of eighteen to make his fortune in Australia. He later met mum and the rest is history.  The likeness and similarities between the brothers is uncanny, they have similar smiley eyes, share infectious chuckling, and yet have uniqueness about them. They are all so warm and huggable! The aunties just want to feed us, they are all so lovely and incredibly accommodating to us. Two of the brothers live next door to each other (one is still in the old family home) and the third brother  is living at their holiday home high in the hills above Lucca.

.....we live in Lucca.....
.....we live on the second floor...
we live upstairs from you...
....guess I think you've seen us before...

We have the whole of the top floor of Piero and Elsa’s home, with our own bedroom, sitting room and private bathroom. It is so comfortable, we would say it is like a 7 star ****** apartment. Zia laughs when we tell her this!




Romano Anfiteatro - walls of the "old" city
follow the  shape of the old roman theatre

 





Friday we took the bus to the city of Lucca, which lies within its medieval walls. It is an amazing city, many narrow side-streets, which still follow the pattern of the former Roman colony in 180BC. Lucca is the birthplace of Giacomo Puccini. Our visit was brief, but spectacular. We will re-visit this city in more detail next week.

Yesterday we travelled to Pisa and visited the Duomo, Bapistry, and the legendary Leaning Tower in the Campo Dei Miricoli. The construction of the Leaning Tower of Pisa began in 1173 on sandy-silt subsoil. The tower commenced tilting before the third storey was completed in 1274. The structure was completed in 1350. The top of the tower currently leans about 5 metres from the vertical!

It is an awesome sight to see in real life, as no photos prepare you for its uncanny tilting. Paul says it looks soooooo wrong!

We apologise that our blogs maybe be brief at the moment as we are cherishing being with family and activities take priority ‘till late in the evening.

Today we are staying at the sea-side resort of Viareggio with our Cousin Elisabetta (she’s gorgeous and looking for a boyfriend!) before heading off to La Spezia as our base for exploring Cinque Terre. No doubt, we will have more time to blog later.

Thankyou again for your comments, as always, they are greatly appreciated. Yr 2/3's - ciao bambini! come state, spero che state molto bene! (oh no!!!!!! I'm starting to talk Italian all the time now!!!). It was fantastic to get your comments, I am so glad NAPLAN is over,

Happy Birthday to Ava, hope you had a great day.

Bradley, hope the baptism went well, I said a little prayer for Emily and Jack today.

Thanks Bruno for all your blog info....!!! Alex for your dissertation....cheers, Paul 

Blog soon!!! xxx T&P